300ZX blog (Donn Lee)

Applied rear decal today

2005-09-25T12:21:00.000-07:00

Groaning noise from antenna

2005-08-28T02:48:00.000-07:00

http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=1220863&words=antenna%3a%3anoise

The ~2” sleeve that you must remove from the old antenna and place on the new one was most of the culprit. Grease and grime had caked up inside it to the point that friction was causing the stopped movement. This is only an issue when the last (and largest dia) deployed section of antenna is being returned. Water goes through here during rain and car washing, etc. Over time it removes the lubricant and leaves behind the grit and grime. In fact, replacing the drain hose behind the rear fender well was the toughest part of this procedure.

My first sign was a slight groaning sound of the antenna motor at the very last point of movement during the return process. This became louder and louder over a period of months until it finally quit returning all the way down. If you had signs starting this way prior to your antenna finally stopping short of full return, this is for you.

I took my antenna completely out of the car. I measured the current draw across the terminals through complete cycles in each direction with no antenna mast inside. Motor seemed flawless. Then I installed the mast and did the same. The biggest change was the last several inches of returning. I slipped the sleeve off the antenna and the outside was spotless, but the inside had seriously caked up junk in there. I hadn’t noticed this the first several times around. I used a 9mm bore brush and cleaned the inside. Put new lithium grease in there and tried it again. The current change was Much less and it returned all the way. It still groaned a little, but not near as much. Remembering that it takes energy (meaning energy supposed to be directed at lowering the antenna, but being wasted on noise due to friction) to make noise and this thing shouldn't be groaning, I went ahead and disassembled the motor assembly, cleaned out the grime and put new lithium grease in side. I then took my old antenna mast, cleaned the teeth of the attached cord and then re-lubed it, making sure there was lithium grease between each tooth in the entire length of cord I could reach as well as on the side surfaces of the cord.

I put it back together, using the orig mast, and it works like a champ. Decided I would save the new mast assy for when this one actually breaks.

So to sum things up, when you pull out your old mast and it has noticeably less than 13” of attached cable exposed (with mast fully extended), you likely have a broken piece inside and it’s time to take all of it apart (check end of cable - it is to be rounded where teeth start, not sharp). If you remove your old mast and everything seems to be in tact, slip that sleeve off and see what it looks like on the inside. If dirty, clean it out, reinstall it as well as re-lubing the attached cable (after cleaning old lube off) seriously well and see if this doesn’t fix things.

This link I found by searching was very helpful.

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/antenna/BellAntenna.htm

Engine bay detail

2005-08-27T02:35:00.000-07:00

(on the Corolla)

Two cleaning agents:

1. Bucket of water with Murphy Oil Soap. Remove thick grime with a rag and this mixture.
2. 303 Aerospace cleaner diluted 1:3 with water and put in a spray bottle. Spray the 303 and let sit on grime for a few minutes. With a spray bottle of water only, shoot away the 303 and the grime. Wiping with the rag dipped in water+MurphyOilSoap is good too for wiping up the 303.

After everything you can see/reach is clean, wipe down all clean plastic/hoses with a damp rag, then immediately spray a light mist of Meguiar's #40 Vinyl & Rubber cleaner/conditioner. This really revives the black plastic housings and hoses. Let sit for 5 minutes. Blot any big pools of Megs #40 (creamy color of liquid).

Drive around a mile or two to get the engine warm and evaporate the Megs #40.

Admire your clean engine bay!

Rear decal (sticker) and misc parts

2005-08-26T01:14:00.000-07:00

Ordered from CourtesyNissan.com:

"Twin Turbo" rear decal (fits 90-93 300ZX) $15.78
GL1 (onyx) 1/2oz touch-up paint bottle $4.99
Nissan oil filter (qty 2) $11.26
Oil pan drain plug washer (qty 3) $2.07
UPS grnd $9.05
Total $43.15

Rear Twin Turbo emblem

2005-08-26T00:15:00.000-07:00

300zxClub.com Forum - Rear Twin Turbo emblem

It's just a sticker.
Soap and warm water is the best sticker-prep (clean the surface). Or 10:1 diluted alcohol. Don't use full strength alcohol.

300zx SR-71 Info

2005-08-12T19:31:00.000-07:00

Nissan 300zx SR71 details for those who wanted it

The Motorsport International 300ZX Twin Turbo, also known as the SR-71, is the Japanese equivalent of a Callaway Corvette. Actually, it's more than equal because it is both quicker and faster. Engineering Editor Peter Albrecht tested the Godzilla Z.

The trouble with being a celebrated gunslinger is that somewhere, there's somebody faster. Just a few months ago, on the dusty Pomona dragstrip, the Callaway Twin Turbo and Corvette ZR-1 raced each other down - and came away with a draw for the fastest on the street.

Now there's a new gun in town. And it just blew the two Vettes right out of the saloon. The new top gun is the Motorsport International SR-71. Just as the Callaway is based on a production Corvette, so the SR-71 is based on Nissan's own supercar, the 300ZX Twin Turbo.

The SR-71 package is put together by Motorsport International of Waco, TX, at 817-776-0330. Randy Ball of Motorsport has been developing Nissan Turbo Zs in various forms for several years. Ball and HKS representatives met at an industry convention, where HKS offered to do a Twin Turbo Z for his personal use. Ball, though, saw a larger market on the horizon.

He commissioned a study to see if a Callaway-type production operation could be done. The result, the Motorsport International SR-71, will be built on an assembly line in Waco. The car will be sold through Nissan top Merit Award dealers who choose to participate, as well as Motorsport International. Ball plans to build 500 cars per year through 1993. One hundred orders are already in hand. The car will carry the same warranty as the stock ZX Turbo, 3 years/36,000 miles, through the Nissan dealer network. The SR-71 will carry a price similar to the sticker on the ZR-1, and be pegged considerably below the Callaway Twin Turbo. (By the way, ZR-1s can now be bought below sticker).
Motorsport bills it as a "serious car for a modest price." The first serial-numbered customer cars will roll out of the Waco plant in November, 1990.

The hard-core engineering work on the SR-71 has been done by HKS USA Inc., of Torrance, CA., a subsidiary of Tokyo-based HKS, a large engineering and manufacturing company that specializes in aftermarket performance. Todd Gartshore of HKS brought out the prototype SR-71 for performance testing at Pomona and Mrs. Orcutt's ever so bumpy Driveway.

The HKS mods on the 3.0 liter Nissan engine boost power on 92 octane premium unleaded pump gas to 464 horses at 17 psi of boost. (The stock car makes an even 300 ponies). Todd Gartshore points out that those 464 horses are representative of what the car will do on the street. Over 400 dyno runs were made with the complete street exhaust system and all emission control hardware intact and functional. Oil and water temperatures were regulated to higher than what the car would eventually see during our speed runs at Mrs. Orcutt's: 225 degrees for water, 205 for oil. The outlet temp from the intercooler was held at 195 degrees, while only 165 degrees were observed at Mrs. Orcutt's on a 100-degree day. HKS did one dyno run with short exhaust stubs behind the turbos and 105 octane racing fuel. The result was a 500 horsepower pull at 6,500 rpm.

The finished SR-71 package will include the HKS-built intercoolers and a street-legal free-flow exhaust bolted behind the stock catalytic converters. HKS and Motorsports International are working on California Air Resources Board certification, and expect the car to be 50-state legal when production begins.

The engine's torque is as impressive as its power numbers. It developed more than 400 lbs. ft. in a broad band between
4,000 and 5,500 rpm. Torque peak on pump gas was 433 lbs. ft. at 4,750 rpm. On racing gas, it saw 462 lbs. ft.

Gartshore thinks the engine has more left in it. "In the dyno run, we made for flash power. We were running very rich. We did not maximize fuel curves to take advantage of the fuel. We believe that if we optimize the mixture, we could run a legitimate 535-540 horsepower."

This is the quickest street legal car we've ever tested. Of all the cars that have carried our test gear, only three race cars - the McLaren M1A, Shelby 427 Cobra, and Shelby GT 350 - could out-accelerate it. And the SR-71 could probably take the Shelby, given slicks and shorter gearing. (The Shelby GT 350 would redline at only 142 mph.)

Gartshore emphasizes that all of this was achieved with no internal engine mods whatsoever. HKS took the engine apart,
put in new bearings and rings, and bolted it back together. The factory cam with its variable valve timing is retained.
Changes are limited to the induction, fuel, and exhaust systems.

HKS and Motorsport are building a more radical motor. With balancing and blueprinting, cams, larger turbos, as well as
extensive bottom end and head work, Gartshore hopes it will put out a reliable 650 horses. "I think that should give us
enough to push the envelope to maybe 220 mph."

The turbochargers have custom housings cast by HKS. The entire rotating sections are taken from production Garrett
AiResearch T25G turbos. As their sole Japanese distributor, HKS has a direct line to Garrett AiResearch.

To use the output from the larger blowers, Motorsport adds HKS' PFC - Program Fuel Computer. The PFC raises the factory
fuel cut point from an indicated 7,200 rpm (which HKS found to be a true 6,500) and the rev limit. The PFC eliminates the stock speed governor, which limits top speed to 157 mph. HKS removes the air mass sensor from one cylinder bank, replaces it with a relocated single sensor feeding just the left bank of cylinders. The right side is wide open, with no air mass sensor restriction. HKS found that the factory airbox was just too restrictive to meet their ultimate goals, so a pair of Power Flow air filters complete the intake tract changes. Gartshore: "Just moving the air mass sensor and adding the free-flow filters adds an easy 35 horsepower."

The PFC controls new 600 cc/minute injectors, replacing the stock 430 cc/min. injectors. The stock injectors in effect
limited boost to 11.5 or 12.0 psi. With the 600 cc/min. units, a realistic 18 psi boost is available, with a maximum of 19 or 20 psi.

The HKS package includes an electronic valve controller (EVC). Unlike factory wastegate controls, the EVC microprocessor does not signal the wastegate until 90 percent of the desired maximum boost is reached. Most street units begin opening well before that. As an example of its effectiveness, the addition of the HKS EVC on a Porsche 930 Turbo, with no boost increase or other engine mods, improves 0-60 mph times by 0.6 seconds and quarter mile times by 0.9 seconds over stock.

The EVC on our test car incorporated another neat little three-letter acronym, the Scramble Boost Controller (SBC). The SBC is an outgrowth of recent Formula One technology. It has three user-controlled functions: 1) Temporary increase in boost over the nominal EVC wastegate setting, from 10 to 100 percent, in 10 percent steps. So the driver can select a
temporary "emergency boost" of, say, 50 percent over normal; 2) Time of overboost, in 3.0 second steps, from 3.0 to 30
seconds; 3) A driver-controlled trigger to activate the SBC, located in an easily accessed location such as a door panel or on the shifter. A small alarm tone warns the driver that the SBC is activated, and a warning light on the trigger goes from green to red. The SBC was not used for our steady-state top speed runs. It would be useful on the drag strip or in passing traffic. Under racing conditions, the SBC helps to economize on fuel, but makes passing power available on demand. Alternatively,
it allows the car to be set up for low boost in corners for smoothness, with bursts of driver-controlled high boost available on the straights. The SBC will not be part of the standard SR-71 package, though. If you want one, call HKS or Motorsport for details.

---

The bad thing is I don't think they producd the hundreds that the article says they did. To my knowledge there are only 5 cars with the SR-71 name plate. One of which (seriel#000) was for sale recently.

As far as I know it was the fastest Z ever made with a full warrenty, the GTZ with 465HP was next and the SMZ with 365 was just above stock.

http://sportscarforums.com/printthread.php?t=3330

CMW and more Pakshak towels

2005-08-11T00:19:00.000-07:00

Clearkote Carnuba Moose Wax and more ultra-plush MF towels from Pakshak came in early this week.

Stock turbo basics

2005-08-08T23:30:00.000-07:00

TURBO FAQ: MODIFYING A SERIES I 300ZX TURBO FOR SPEED: "A stock 300ZX has one of the most basic turbo systems available. It is a single, fixed pitch turbocharger (Garret T-3), with a stock boost of 4-5psi. There is no intercooler or compressor bypass valve, and the wastegate is built into the turbocharger assembly(internal). There is an external pop-off valve (not the same as a bypass valve), which is in the intake manifold. Why is the system so simple? Because it is only made to handle low boost situations. I once had some yahoo go on and on about intercoolers, saying how they are so great, why doesn't the Z have one... nanana... An intercooler is NOT EFFECTIVE below 8 psi, the costs/losses from an intercooler would exceed any possible gains; dumb guy still doesn't understand it. Same for a bypass valve. What this means for us is that there is a lot of room for improvement :)"

ZDriver.com - NGK Spark Plugs

2005-08-06T02:39:00.000-07:00

ZDriver.com - NGK Spark Plugs: "If I haven't posted this before, this would most likely be a good time to do so.
Have a look at the difference between the Stock Nissan NGK Plugs and all the others.
This is the reason why stock plugs should be used."

Underhood "Goosehonk" sound is normal

2005-08-06T02:24:00.000-07:00

300zxClub.com Forum - Goosehonk!: "I found this vid on another forum. It will be good for future reference when people search for the infamous 'goosehonk' problem.

What 'GOOSEHONK' sounds like.

BTW, it doesn't mean anything is wrong with your Z. It is the sound of the stock recirc. valves in action. Your Z always did it, it's just that you couldn't hear it as much with the stock air box still installed."

2nd Autopia order arrives

2005-08-05T22:48:00.000-07:00

Autopia rocks. They are frickin' fast. OXO large car duster (better than the California Car Duster), Megs Slide Lock Detail Brush (brush hairs are indeed natural and are better than I expected), 303 Aerospace cleaner 32oz.

Time to get psyched about auto detailing again!

1992 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo info

2005-08-03T15:42:00.000-07:00

Model number: Z32
2-door, 2-passenger
Front engine, rear drive
Engine/displacement: 2960cc DOHC V-6 turbo
Horsepower: 300 hp @ 6400 rpm
Torque: 283 lb-ft @ 3600 rpm
Transmission: 5-speed manual
Wheelbase: 96.5 in.
Curb weight: 3475 lbs.
0-60 mph: 6.0 sec
1/4 mile: 14.4 sec, 102.3 mph
Wheels: 16x7.5 front, 16x8.5 rear
Stock Tires: 225/50VR16 front, 245/45ZR16 rear
My tires:
>>Front: Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole Position. 245/40ZR18. Treadwear 220, Traction AA, Temperature A. These have a reputation for wearing out too fast.
>>Rear: Nitto "Extreme ZR" NT555. 275/35ZR18 95W (Separate Left & Right tires). Treadwear 300, Traction A, Temperature A.
Braking, 60-0 mph: 116 ft
Exhaust: Upgraded to Borla cat-back system (everything from the catalyst converters back) by Jay.

March 1990 Motor Trend Import Car of the Year stats:
http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/stats/mtmar90.html

Exterior color: Onyx (aka Black), Nissan color code "GL1".
Interior: Charcoal Leather (aka Black; This was an extra-cost option)

All color info:
http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/colors.html

FAQ:
http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/z32faq.html

Comparisons with other cars:
http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/stats/mtapr92.html

Reading a tire

2005-08-02T19:51:00.000-07:00

300ZX has: load/speed rating of 95W

More detailing supplies

2005-08-02T19:38:00.000-07:00

OXO Car Duster, large $20.
303 Aerospace Cleaner, 32oz $15.
Meguiars Slide Lock Detail Brush $5.

autopia.com
CA sales tax $2.71
Ground shipping $7
coupon: ABC (15%) -$5.98
Total: $43.58

Shifter Knob

2005-08-02T18:54:00.000-07:00

This seems to be the shifter currently on the car (shopmomo.com):

This Nismo one looks promising (performancenissanparts.com):

More Pakshak towels, CMW

2005-08-01T11:07:00.000-07:00

Bought 5 more ultra-plush MF towels from Pakshak. Also got a pint (16oz) of Clearkote Carnuba Moose Wax, $18.00 (minus 10% autopia discount).

Finished trial detail

2005-07-30T22:45:00.000-07:00

Finished detailing on the Camry. Steps:

* Megs Hot Rims on hubcaps/wheels.
* Wash with Megs NXT and Turtle Wax sheepskin mitt.
* Rinse with Mr. Clean filtered water.
* Dry spots/puddles with Megs Water Magnet.
* Megs detailing clay with Clay Magic's clay lube.
* More claying with Megs Final Inspection as clay lube.
* Klasse All-in-One. Wipe before it dries with MF.
* S100 paste wax applied with Megs foam applicators.
* Megs NXT Tech Wax (polymer) on hood, roof, and trunk only.
* S100 wax on black painted vertical window separators (on side windows).
* Mothers Reflections on tires with EO tire swipes.
* Photos taken outside!

Quick detail on certain areas on 300ZX: Removed layer of dust with Pakshak MF lightly dragged over surface. EO Wet Wipe & Shine seems to be working better than Megs Final Inspection.

Magazine article scans

2005-07-30T13:04:00.000-07:00

NICE & FAST NISSAN 300ZX Twin Turbo

Air filter replacement

2005-07-30T01:25:00.000-07:00

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com has air filter ("POP charger") replacement filters and spray oil.

K&N sells a filter cleaning solution and their own spray oil.

Apparently, the JimWolf one comes with a generic air filter, while the Stillen one comes with a K&N air filter.
http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=15714

First Owner found

2005-07-29T23:43:00.000-07:00

From one service receipt in Jay's folder, I found the name/address of the original owner: Shahrokh (last name not listed here), Mt View.

Service receipt was for 7500 mile service at Palo Alto Nissan, 473 Acacia. Mailing address was: 3001 El Camino Real, Palo Alto 94306.

Bazooka specs

2005-07-29T23:29:00.000-07:00

The RS6A-HP was part of the flagship RS series manufactured by Bazooka (it has since been replaced by the BTA6200) and features a 6.5” treated paper cone with a foam surround housed in a ported water-resistant black plastic tube that measures 19 1/8” L x 7” W x 8 3/8” H. The cone is described as a pure piston woofer and comes with a 1” high power/ high temp turbo cooled voice coil that allows it to play louder and with greater accuracy and power handling. It has a 20-ounce magnet and a mosfet mono amplifier that produces a power output rating of 150 watts RMS. The unit can be powered up by either the automatic turn on circuit, or by purchasing the optional remote. It has a frequency response range of 39-250 Hz, a 50-250 Hz variable low-pass filter (18 dB/octave), a built-in 12 dB subsonic filter, a sensitivity rating of 100 dB, and impedance is 4 ohms. It weighs in at 15 pounds and is warranted for 2 years. Also included are two plastic mounting bases with nylon straps, a 15 amp blade fuse with holder, and an assortment of screws and connectors to help secure everything into place. Additionally, you will need to purchase a wiring kit to connect to the vehicle’s battery for power.

http://ecoustics.epinions.com/content_177601744516

Service History

2005-07-29T23:14:00.000-07:00

From service records obtained from Jay:

12/23/04; 100,822 mi:
Nitto NT 555 Extreme tire installation at America's Tire Co. (1610 Broadway, Redwood City, 650-366-4003). 275/35ZR-18 95W. $234 each (includes labor). Rear only. Torque spec: 90 lbs. Lifetime warranty, balancing, repairs.

09/05/02:
Order for Stillen Lip/Front Spoiler/Fascia Nissan 300ZX 90-96 Turbo GTZ. $229 + $25 freight/shipping. From Stillen.com, 3176 Airway Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626.

09/2002:
Stereo installation by Monney Car Audio (Redwood City, 650-299-9991). JVC KD-SX980 Radio CD MP3 player. Two 4" coaxial speakers "#4200" ($75 each; Brand?). RS6A Bazooka 6-inch amplified subwoofer (probably the RS6A-HP, see other blog entry for specs).

06/06/02:
Brake system diagnosis. Master cylinder replaced (previous had internal failure). Replaced sport suspension activation switch.

Dan Pardini's Auto Body & Fabrication, Redwood City

2005-07-29T12:07:00.000-07:00

Pardini's Dan Auto Body & Fabrication in REDWOOD CITY: "Pardini's Dan Auto Body & Fabrication"

2366 Bay Rd
REDWOOD CITY, CA 94063
(650) 365-4549

Stereo Manuals Found

2005-07-29T00:59:00.000-07:00

JVC America Consumer Site - User Manuals

PDFs of KD-SX980 stereo system manuals.

Also saved to gmail.

Service Manual

2005-07-28T20:38:00.000-07:00

Factory Service Manual (FSM) from Nissan Publications arrived today.

Covercraft Sun shade arrives

2005-07-27T21:05:00.000-07:00

Custom made sunshade from Covercraft arrived today. Fits beautifully and very thick/rigid material. It rocks. I was hesisitant to pay the price, but now I'm glad I got it. And the storage bag too is well worth it.

Autogeek sent me the right S100 product; it arrived. Good customer service: Sent overnight UPS and got a personal phone call from Courtney at Autogeek.

Note on Car

2005-07-27T21:02:00.000-07:00

After work today, I found this note on my 300zx. I have driven this car to work only 4 times so far. And it was parked in the back corner spot.

Got some gas today at the Shell down the street from the neighborhood.

Leather cleaning, conditioning

2005-07-24T19:05:00.000-07:00

Cleaned driver's seat with Zaino Z9 and a toothbrush (to agitate cleaner over leather). Conditioned seat with Zaino Z10. Great leather smell. Driver's seat looks even better than it was.

Meguiar's clinic

2005-07-23T23:37:00.000-07:00

Tips learned:
* When washing MF towels, rinse twice (two rinse cycles).
* Wash sponge applicators in the washing machine, but wash separate from MF towels because applicators tend to have lots of wax/polish/other stuff in them.
* Don't wash dual-action (DA) sponge pads. Just pound them out with a clean terry cloth towel in your hand and store them in a ziplock bag. Indicate on the bag, what the pad was used for (wax, polish, Klasse AIO, etc). If you want to wash them with soap, do a gentle handwash by squeezing them. You don't want to be rough with the pads; don't want to damage them.

The Meg low-torque, dual-action orbital is a Porter-Cable (PC) 7335. It has a lifetime warranty from Meg when you buy the Meg version. Apply wax on speed "4", remove with MF bonnet on speed "5".

Bought a bucket of Meg detailing supplies for $110:
* Wheel brush (Gold class)
* Water magnet MF drying towel (Gold Class)
* Supreme Shine MF towel (Gold Class)
* Deep pile chenille wash mitt (Gold Class)
* Pro Detailing clay 200g
* #34 Final Inspection, 16oz (clay lube and quick detail spray)
* NXT Glass Cleaner, 24oz
* Hot Rims wheel cleaner, 24oz
* Sponge applicator pads (qty 4)
* Liquid Tech Wax, 18oz
* Quik Interior Detailer, 16oz
* #38 Pro Tire & Trim Dressing Gel, 32oz
* #40 Pro Vinyl & Rubber cleaner/conditioner/UV block

Best Hose Nozzle

2005-07-23T23:36:00.000-07:00

Autopia - Best Hose Nozzle??: "The Ultimate Nozzle is made by Bonaire available from Home depot. I use quick disconnects on it and the foam gun and plastic shut off valves only per Accumulator's advise against the brass ones: if they fail, they will launch, a brass one launching will be a gigantic disaster!"

(The Bonaire nozzle is the one used at the Meguiar's clinic today)

Taking Dust off... California Duster?

2005-07-23T09:41:00.000-07:00

Autopia - Taking Dust off... California Duster?: "I use the California Duster too. I think it works great. I take the advice of that someone (I forget who) gave on how to use it. Just kind of dangle the threads to where they lightly touch the paint, don't press it down and rub it all around. Go in the same direction as windflow when you drive, and shake it out after each pass. I've seen some people kind of scrub the paint with it, and I don't think that can be good."

Swiffer dusters for Autos

2005-07-23T09:33:00.000-07:00

Autopia - Swiffer dusters for Autos: "I like MFs for the interior but I'm hard pressed to find something better than the Swiffer duster to fit in all those nooks and crannies of the engine compartment. Another big plus is that as they get dirty, in the case,can be heavier dirt than the MF in an interior picks up, no need to foul up your washing machine unnecessarily.You simply throw them out.

Oh yeah, a tip I picked up: before you install the Swiffer duster on the handle pull on it a bit down on one side and up on the other together in one motion at the same time: this motion fluffs up the fibers."

(Don't use on paint)

DMV Title Arrives

2005-07-22T19:03:00.000-07:00

DMV title arrived in the mail today. Transfer date is "7/5/05".

Autogeek order error

2005-07-22T14:35:00.000-07:00

Order arrived, but they sent me S100 "Polishing Soap" instead of S100 Carnuba Wax.

Removing Shifter Knob (thread)

2005-07-20T00:33:00.000-07:00

300zxClub.com Forum - shifter knob removal: "righty tighty, lefty loosy. Turn it counter-clockwise, and it'll come off. Stock shift knobs are indeed put on with locktite from the factory, so they're usually very very difficult to remove the first time."

Rewrap the Steering Wheel

2005-07-20T00:28:00.000-07:00

300zxClub.com Forum - shifter knob removal: "Send your steering wheel to www.importsextreme.com. They'll rewrap your steering wheel."

Clay Magic arrives

2005-07-20T00:04:00.000-07:00

Clay Magic kit from Autopia arrived today. Now I need to get some buckets from Tap Plastics. And the autogeek order, of course. Then, it's time to alpha test on the Camry. heh

Pakshak Towels arrived

2005-07-15T17:33:00.000-07:00

My order of two MF towels from pakshak.com arrived today:
One 16"x16" Ultra-Plush
One 16"x24" Waffle Weave

The ultra-plush has one side that is softer. We'll see how they compare to the yellow Costco MF towels after washing them.

Custom Sunshade

2005-07-14T20:58:00.000-07:00

Bought from bigskycarcovers.com:
Covercraft UVS100 (UVS-100) Heat Shield
Custom fit for 300ZX
$44
and $5 storage bag

Lots of new detailing supplies

2005-07-14T15:42:00.000-07:00

Ordered from Autopia-Carcare.com:
Clay Magic Kit (100g bar & 24oz of Clay Lube) $15. Coupon: AUTOPIA gets 12% off. Free shipping on orders $75 or more (SHIPFREE coupon; Cannot be combined with other coupons).
Coupon -$1.79
Shipping $4.90
Tax $1.05
Total $19.11

Ordered from Autogeek.com (Coupon: autopia = 10% off):
Two Grit Guards for rinse buckets, $18 for two
S100 paste wax 6.2oz net wt, $16
OXO Ergo Wheel Brush, $16
Klasse All-in-One 10oz, $18
Mothers Reflections Tire Care 24oz, $7.50
Subtotal $75.30
Coupon -$7.53
Shipping $13.95
Total $81.72

DMV Transfer of Ownership

2005-07-14T15:39:00.000-07:00

Went to DMV in Redwood City and completed the transfer of ownership (had appointment). Didn't have the old plates to turn in, so had to keep Jay's personalized plates. Didn't have my checkbook, good thing there was a Wells Fargo branch office down the street (across Veterans Blvd) on Main Street (needed cash to pay DMV fees/taxes).

Isolated dripping sound after engine off

2005-07-13T21:44:00.000-07:00

Seems the "sizzling" dripping sound is condensed water from the A/C. Drove home with the t-tops off for the first time, thus didn't use the A/C. After parking at home, did not hear the dripping sound.

Touch-Up Paint for the 300ZX 1990-1996 Z32

2005-07-13T21:03:00.000-07:00

Touch-Up Paint for the 300ZX 1990-1996 Z32: "GL1/ Onyx"

messner incorporated Online Catalog: BAQ-4165900

2005-07-13T15:19:00.000-07:00

messner incorporated Online Catalog: BAQ-4165900

The Butchers Foam Gun arrived today via UPS.

Ordered via phone: Messner Inc.
Item #: BAQ-4165900
Butchers® Shower Foam Gun
-Automatically mixes cleaning chemical and water to the right dilution. Shoots foam six feet with the squeeze of a handle.
-Adjusts to 5 different dilution settings & rinse setting.
-Holds a full qt. of cleaner concentrate

$67.52 + $3.72 tax
plus shipping

Comparing Wool Mitts

2005-07-12T18:57:00.000-07:00

There were 3 Turtle Wax mitts at Pep Boys today. I selected the best/softest one.

Back at home, I compared the TW mitt to the ones from Exceldetail. The exceldetail mitts are softer, finer. They have a silk/satin feel compared to the TW mitt. The TW mitt is very good but feels a little more "bristly" than the exceldetail ones. Like super-fine micro bristles when compared side-by-side with exceldetail.

How-To Wax Your Car

2005-07-12T17:59:00.000-07:00

How-To Wax Your Car: "Detailers that prepare show cars will often layer a carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax. The synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer, while the carnauba wax adds depth and a wet-looking appearance. One combination that works well is an initial coating of Klasse All-In-One followed by one or more coats of P21S Carnauba Wax.
Apply and buff the first coat of wax as you would normally, and allow it to cure for 12 to 48 hours. Follow with a second coat. Note that the first coat of wax must have time to cure. If the wax does not cure (harden), the second coat will not improve your car's appearance or protection. With properly applied coats of wax, you will see a noticeable improvement in depth, richness of color and gloss with the second coat of wax. Adding more layers is a subjective matter, although many concours winners use multiple layers to produce the desired depth. "

Microfiber Car Detailing Towels & Accessories Primer

2005-07-12T17:52:00.000-07:00

Microfiber Car Detailing Towels & Accessories Primer: "MAINTAINING MICROFIBER
I’ve read a lot of tips on how to clean and care for microfiber. It’s really very simple.

The best general purpose cleaner is a liquid detergent. It’s better to use too little than too much. Liquid is recommended over powder because some powders do not completely dissolve and the granules will lodge in the toweling.

Wash in cold water only. Warm water can be tolerated, but hot water cannot. Polyester and polyamide both shrink in hot water. If you wash in hot water the fibers will shrink and the towel will not perform as intended.

Do not use fabric softeners of any kind. The softener will become lodged in the microfiber reducing its ability to absorb water, clean and pick up dirt. In short, you’ll have a soft towel that’s useless.

Do not dry above medium heat. Treat microfiber towels the same as you would your delicate clothing. Drying with high heat is worse that washing in hot water.

Just recently, a cleaning solution was developed specifically for cleaning microfiber towels. I tested a product called Micro-Restore Detergent that claims to effectively remove dirt without using the bleaches and softeners commonly found in laundry detergents. After cleaning several loads of dirty towels, I made the switch. My towels now seem to last longer and don’t get matted down."

Zaino Z9 & Z10 arrived

2005-07-12T17:34:00.000-07:00

Z9 Leather Cleaner and Z10 Leather Conditioner arrived in via UPS today.

How-To Polish Paint

2005-07-12T17:29:00.000-07:00

How-To Polish Paint: "POLISHING TIPS
Once you've selected a polish, here are some tips to make polishing easier:
Work in a shaded area, out of direct sunlight.
Work on one area at a time covering two to four square feet. Buff off the polish residues as you go. This allows you to discover any problems early before polishing the entire car.
For best results, use a foam applicator pad to apply polish. If you need a little more polish or cleaning power, use a terry cloth applicator. When the applicator becomes caked with polish, switch to a fresh applicator.
Use a small amount of polish. With most polishes, a 1-inch size dab is enough to polish a two to three square foot area.
If the polishing residue does not buff off easily, switch to a clean buffing towel.
Apply polishes in a back and forth motion, not circular (polishes should take out swirls, not create them� don't polish in circles). If you are creating swirls, you are using a polish that is too abrasive or you need to replace your polishing pad or towels.
After polishing, your car's paint should be squeaky clean, smooth, and free of streaks and minor swirls. It's now ready for waxing."

Howto Clay Your Car

2005-07-12T17:06:00.000-07:00

Superior Auto Detailing Supplies: "How to: Properly Clay your car
Make sure you have thoroughly washed and dried your car prior to claying.

- Break of a piece of Clay about half the size of a golf ball, roll into a ball and then flatten it out into a pancake.
- Spray the first section of the roof with quick detailer.
- Glide the clay across the area in a front to back motion applying some pressure.
- Work in 2x2 areas.
- If you feel your fingers going through the clay, then you are pushing too hard. If the clay is streaking on the paint, then you need more QD.
- While gliding, you should hear a slight noise and feel some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the QD off with a quality towel. Move onto the next 2x2 section and do the same thing.
- Once the clay starts to pick up contaminates you will see it in the clay. You can turn the clay over and use the other side, but your clay will not last forever! If you do continue to use it, you will most likely put micro scratches in your clear.
- You will probably need 4-12 pieces of clay for your entire car. Please note if you ever drop the clay, throw it away! It will pick up any dirt on the ground and potentially scratch your paint.

When complete your car should be as smooth as glass. The next steps should be to remove the swirls (if necessary), clean/polish the paint, and seal in the rejuvenated finish with a wax or sealant. You don�t need to clay your car every time you detail your car. I would suggest once a year for an average vehicle."

Bought detailing supplies (Pep Boys)

2005-07-12T16:31:00.000-07:00

Bought at Pep Boys (Capitol Expwy & Story Rd):
64oz Meguiar's NXT Wash, $6
18oz Eagle One Wet Wipe & Shine, $5
26oz Eagle One 20/20 Glass Cleaner, $4
2pk Meguiar's wax applicator sponges, round, yellow, $3
Turtle Wax natural sheepskin wash mitt, $7
2pk Eagle One Tire Swipes, sponges, $3

Total w/tax: $30.25

Pep Boys did not have:
Mother's Reflections Tire Care (use Vinylex for now)
S100 paste wax
ClayMagic kit
Stoner's Invisible Glass (but EO 20/20 is just as good)
OXO Tire Brush

AutoZone nearby, across Capitol Expwy didn't have any of these items (except they did have EO Wet W&S).

Eagle One Wet Tire Shine is solvent-based

2005-07-12T13:53:00.000-07:00

Autopia Detailing Product Reviews: "I picked this product up some time ago at a car show from a Eagle One Rep. It is a solvent based dressing that produces a relatively high shine finish on the tire.

It's important to buff this dressing down well to be sure there is no fling off. It will stain the paint. I got some fling off on a vehicle and it ended up leaving stains on the bottom edges of the painted bumper.

It does cause brown staining on tires like the Eagle One Tire GEL did. I don't know about these heavy solvent based dressings. I just don't like them.

I wouldn't use this product again personally. I can see if you want a really high sine on a tire, possibly for a car show, then this might be a product to look into."

S100 Drawbacks

2005-07-12T13:49:00.000-07:00

Autopia Detailing Product Reviews: "I have noticed some minor drawbacks. There seems to be some impurities in the wax. Looking into the jar you may note some small dark colored particles in the white wax. These start to collect in your foam pad and at first I thought it was coming from the car. S100 also binds up your MF fairly quick. You will need to use more than one MF to buff the whole car, changing sides often. Your hand will also get a very dry, chalky feel after use. But who cares when you stand back to admire the sparkle. "

S100 dries out

2005-07-12T13:29:00.000-07:00

Autopia Detailing Product Reviews: "I really enjoyed my uses with S100. It goes on like butter and comes off with a MF very very easily. I have used it on about 10 different vehicles. It seems to bring a nice deep, reflective finish to the vehicle. Works better on dark cars.

However, halfway through the container now, I now am seeing some clumping of the product. It comes out in clumps sometimes on the pad rather than a smooth buttery paste.

But, for under $20, it shines like crazy, beads quite well, lasts a good amount of time...Overall, a great value."

S100 is P21S

2005-07-12T13:28:00.000-07:00

Autopia Detailing Product Reviews: "I picked up a container of S100 (the same as P21S for those of you who don't know) for $14.95 at my local Harley shop. As soon as I got home, I went straight to the garage and started applying it to my car (it was already washed and clean). The packaging is nice looking, and the container is a normal round plastic jar filled with a pure carnauba wax with no fancy smells or additives. It comes with a round foam applicator that fits perfectly into the jar...anything bigger may be hard to use. "

Souveran Review

2005-07-12T13:13:00.000-07:00

Autopia Detailing Product Reviews: "Like every single person that has tried Souveran in the past, I was skeptical at first. I purchased the wax on a whim seeing a huge price cut on a sale, and got around to giving it a shot.

As far as the packaging goes, it's great. Comes in a golden-colored bag which is really unnecessary, but the jar itself is very solid, the cap screws on tightly, the wax is easy to get on an applicator, no problems whatsoever. Better than P21S/S100's jar which is thinner and has a lower quality lid.

Most likely the easiest to use carnauba paste wax out there. Wiping on and off takes no effort with a foam applicator and a decent microfiber towel. No drying time required. Very similar to P21S/S100, but slightly easier to buff off.

The smell is very nice, but almost overpowering. I'd prefer to have it toned down a notch or two.

The look is what everybody is always skeptical about, and are always amazed by afterwards. Nothing I've tried so far is really like it on my flat black car. The depth and wetness are the two things you'll notice off the bat. It darkens, and reflections are present, but not as sharp and clear as P21S/S100, more warped, like a funhouse mirror effect. Your paint won't feel super slick as it would if you were using a product like FMJ or UPP, but it'll be very smooth. Like comparing the surface of ice to that of butter.

Durability's the one con to this product. It just doesn't last all that long (most should expect about three weeks to a month.) However, given the quality and the look of it, I (and most others) are fine with that. Given the ease of use, application of another coat doesn't take long at all.

Before trying it, I was convinced this product couldn't be worth the money over a $30 jar or P21S or a $15 jar of S100. After giving it a fair shot, anybody who says they can't notice the difference between those and Souveran on a dark color aren't looking hard enough.

It's not a product to be used all the time, but it's the one to reach for when you're looking to impress at car shows, family gatherings, track days, and the like."

Autopia Detailing Product Reviews

2005-07-12T13:09:00.000-07:00

Autopia Detailing Product Reviews: "I recently purchased and have used Pinnacle Souveran. I was little skeptical about buying a jar of wax for near 70 bucks, oh but I'm glad I did. I have used it on a 93 Black MR2 and my Aegean Blue Pearl acura. I must say SIMPLY STUNNING. With a properly prepped surface, the initial Gloss, shine, DEPTH, wetness is the best. It has taken my car's paint to a new level. I have used a variety of waxes and sealants including Zaino and P21S. Souveran simply is a league of its own. If you are the discriminating detailer and can tell the difference this is the wax for you. The value is much more justified after using it for two seperate applications, it just doesnt even look like I used any out of the jar! I can see getting 40-60 applications from one jar! Im sure the only downfall to this wax is prolly the durability. I havent had it on for long but I will be monitoring durability."

Waxes for different colors

2005-07-12T12:55:00.001-07:00

Autopia - Best Wax For Blue Metalic Paint: "In addition to the above some waxes take on a clear look wet of the paint or products below P21s, Nattys. Others deepen the colour, Souveran, CMW or # 26.

In doing this some may give a relective look, others a deep or wet look. Others may give a glossy salad oil look.

Reflective or clear looking waxes are good on light colours and metallics. Deepening waxes on dark colours, dark mettalllics, blacks and reds."

Autopia Detailing Product Reviews

2005-07-12T12:55:00.000-07:00

Autopia Detailing Product Reviews: "I've been using Carnauba Moose for more than a year now and it is my preferred liquid wax on dark colors. The only wax I have that has a deeper look on black is Pinnacle Souveran and the difference is pretty minor. CMW is definitely more durable too. I am getting 4-6 months of beading, slickness and great appearance.

Great ease of use too. Apply a thin layer to a section or two and remove, or you can apply it to the entire vehicle then remove. Either way, it wipes off with ease. CMW definitely gives more depth and wetness to the paint and as it cures, the clarity is terrific. "

Autopia - Carnauba wax list?

2005-07-12T04:23:00.000-07:00

Autopia - Carnauba wax list?: "I find most carnubas on very well preped paint have very subtle differences.

On Black, I find Nattys, Clearkote Carnuba Moose Wax, P21s/S100, Souveran, Signature, Blitz, #26 or 16 all look very alike, and most take on the look greated by the poishes and glazes used in the prep. I find myself using Nattys, Clearkote Carnuba Moose Wax, P21s/S100, Souveran, Signature. The slight edge going to CMW or Souveran as they darken the paint slightly.

On lighter colours I have some will change the colour off the paint more, some give more gloss/reflective look, others look wetter. On my old light blue car Nattys, Clearkote Carnuba Moose Wax, P21s/S100 depending how I felt.

Due to the overall range of colours you have, I would get either P21s or Pinnacle Signature."

Klasse ALL-IN-ONE Polish & Sealant

2005-07-12T04:21:00.000-07:00

Klasse ALL-IN-ONE Polish & Sealant:

"Application Tip: Klasse All-In-One wipes on easily with a damp terry cloth or terry applicator pad but here’s an application method that is faster and produces phenomenal results.

Take a dry Viper Microfiber Detailing Cloth (not the Glass Cloth) and fold it until it’s palm sized (5” to 6” square). Lightly mist the cloth with Eagle One Wet Wipe N’ Shine. Apply a dab of All-In-One to the cloth about the size of a nickel. Apply to one section of the car at a time (i.e. a door, 1/2 of the top, etc.). You’ll notice that it wipes on very easily (thanks to the lubricating action of the Wet Wipe N’ Shine) and leaves virtually no residue. When you’re done with one section, take a second, dry Viper Detailing Cloth and re-wipe the area to remove any residual residues.

Continue walking around the vehicle doing one section at a time. Re-fold your application cloth as needed to keep the application surface fresh. Continue with a light mist of Wipe N’ Shine and a small dab of All-In-One to do each section of the vehicle.

If you’re a perfectionist, you can repeat the above steps using Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze. It takes less Glaze to do the same area so start with a dab the size of a dime. You do not need to wait for the All-In-One to dry before applying the Sealant Glaze. It can be applied immediately."

P21S Pure Paste Wax

2005-07-12T04:14:00.000-07:00

P21S Pure Paste Wax: "This wax nails the 'Best Value' category right on the head. While P21S Carnauba Wax doesn't excel in any one category it is close to the top in every category. If you're thinking about taking the plunge into high quality car care products but don't want to take out a second mortgage, here's the place to begin. This wax is way under rated. It could easily sell for much more. It produces that elusive carnauba glow on light color cars yet still offers a liquid shimmer on dark colors. It hides swirls and wipes on & buffs off very easy with no chalky residues.
This is a pure wax so a polish or pre-wax cleaner should be used prior to first time application. This wax can also be layered to increase the depth of shine. I have never found any evidence of yellowing or discoloration. You should plan on waxing your car four times a year with this wax for maximum protection.
Because this wax requires a polish prior to application and has the limited durability of all carnauba waxes, it qualifies as an 'enthusiast' wax. If you're willing to take the extra time to polish your car first and then wax four times a year, P21S Carnauba Wax will reward you with a shine that would be the envy of most show cars.
If you can not allocate the time for separate polishing and quarterly waxing, consider a one-step polish/protectant like Klasse All-In-One."

Proper Waxing Tips

2005-07-12T03:58:00.000-07:00

Proper Waxing Tips: "Proper Waxing Tips

Once you�ve selected a wax, here are some tips to make waxing easier:

1. Always work in a shaded area. Elevated paint temperatures cause waxes to dry too quickly. this may cause hazing or streaking.

2. Apply waxes using as thin a coating as possible.

3. Remove wax and buff using clean, dry terry towels.

Tightly woven material (like diapers) can trap particles between itself and the paint and cause fine scratches. New microfiber towels like the Magic Towel work unbelievably well as a final wipe towel. I keep one Magic Towel just for use as a final wipe towel and honestly believe that it creates a better shine.

4. If you have difficulty buffing the wax to a uniform shine, switch to a clean wipe towel.

5. Hazing, streaking, and uneven gloss can result from using too much wax or waxing a surface that�s too hot. If the gloss is uneven, mist the waxed surface with distilled water and re-wipe with a fresh towel. (A spray bottle with distilled water and 1/2 teaspoon of Isopropyl alcohol is a great solution for removing problem streaks and cloudy patches.) Eagle One Wet Wipe & Shine, Eimann Fabrik Clear Pearl, and Pinnacle Crystal Mist also work wonders on problem cars with streaking and uneven gloss. Simply mist the surface with one of these products and wipe with a clean towel.

Show-Car Trick

Detailers that prepare show cars will often layer a carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax. The synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer while the carnauba wax adds depth and liquidity. One combination that works very well is an initial coating of Klasse All-In-One followed by one or more coats of Pinnacle Paste Glaz or Souveran wax. The Pinnacle waxes are super-pure carnauba waxes that can be layered without any yellowing effects."

Souveran over Klasse AIO

2005-07-12T03:31:00.000-07:00

Link

Nearly fifteen years! That's how long we've been using and recommending Klasse products. Over the years, we've gotten to know the Klasse people very well. Unlike our domestic, multi-national, mega-conglomerates, Klasse is a small family company. They're the kind of people you have over for hamburgs on the grill or a homemade pizza. Just down-to-earth, nice folks.

We were the first to recommend putting Pinnacle Souveran paste wax over Klasse All-In-One to deepen the shine. At first, Klasse considered this a sacrilege! They couldn't accept putting any (shudder) "wax" over their product. As the years passed, their attitude changed from contempt, to tolerance and, finally, to acceptance. (On a recent visit, the head of Klasse asked for some Souveran paste wax for his personal vehicle!)

I mention this because Souveran-over-Klasse is now the newly discovered, in vogue combination being touted by enthusiasts. Unfortunately, our original system got misinterpreted at some point and people are recommending a procedure that isn't optimum. (Remember, we've been doing Souveran-over-Klasse for over ten years!)

To set the record straight, we created this Klasse-Pinnacle Kit, the system that started it all. Despite its age, this combination is still considered by many perfectionists to be the best car care system on the planet.

The foundation of our system is Klasse All-In-One, Germany's best one-step cleaner/polish/protectant. All-In-One removes surface films, old wax and light oxidation yet bonds to the surface like a wax. It doesn't penetrate or change the paint in any way but it leaves a mirror-like, acrylic shine. This finish also resists UV deterioration, pollution and acid rain but this is a side benefit. In our system, All-In-One is used as a gloss producing polish.
To apply All-In-One, we're including a Microfiber Applicator Pad and a spray bottle of Eagle One Wet Wipe N'Shine. This is a little trick we learned that makes All-In-One application a breeze. Lightly mist the applicator pad with Wipe N'Shine and apply a dab of All-In-One, about the size of a nickel. Apply to one section of the car at a time (i.e. a door, 1/2 of the hood, etc.). You'll notice that it wipes on easily (thanks to the lubricating action of the Wipe N'Shine) and leaves virtually no residue. When you're done with one section, re-wipe the area with a clean Viper Microfiber Detailing Cloth to remove any residues.
Continue walking around the vehicle doing one section at a time. Use a light mist of Wipe N'Shine and a small dab of All-In-One to do each section of the vehicle.

If possible, let the car set overnight to give Klasse time to bond. I have waxed over Klasse immediately but I always felt I obtained better results giving the All-In-One time to set up. Do not use Klasse's companion product, High Gloss Sealant Glaze. While Pinnacle Souveran paste wax is magical over All-In-One, it doesn't like the Sealant Glaze. Waxing over High Gloss Sealant Glaze can produce hazy patches or ghosting.

After you've allowed the All-In-One time to set up, its ready for the finishing touch, Pinnacle Souveran paste wax. Respected by show car owners and enthusiasts nationwide, Souveran has set a new standard for depth and richness. Souveran's blend of super refined Brazilian Ivory Carnauba and natural oils enhances all colors but is stunning on black, red and dark color paints.
Used as a top coat over Klasse All-In-One, it darkens the shine, adding tremendous depth and liquidity.

Like All-In-One, Souveran is applied to one panel at a time. Mist the yellow foam applicator with Eagle Wet Wipe N'Shine and wipe a thin layer of wax on the surface. (The thinner the better.) It wipes on like butter. Hard rubbing is not required. Wipe off immediately with a clean Viper Microfiber Detailing Cloth. There is no waiting for the wax to dry and no chalky residues to buff off. Simply walk around the car wiping wax on and buffing it off. I can wax my entire car in less than 20 minutes with Souveran.

Wait, you want more? Here's one more trick but it's completely optional. This is for the absolute perfectionist. Allow Souveran to set overnight and give the vehicle a second coat of Souveran wax. If you have a black, red or dark color vehicle, you'll see the finish get darker and deeper with this second application. Sorry, you can't apply the second coat immediately. You won't get the same results. The first coat needs to cure overnight.
That's our system and we know of more than one show car owner that uses this exact procedure.

Our Klasse-Pinnacle Kit contains:
16 oz. Klasse All-In-One
A Viper Microfiber Applicator Pad
18 oz. Eagle Wet Wipe N'Shine
8 oz. Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax
A yellow foam wax applicator
Two Viper Microfiber Detailing Cloths
16 oz. Crystal Mist
Instructions

Plus, I'm including a bonus. Free!
All-In-One and Souveran will keep your car protected for months but normal driving can diminish that illusive sparkle. To restore that "just-waxed" shine, I'm including a 16 oz. spray bottle of Pinnacle Crystal Mist and a third Viper Microfiber Detailing Cloth!

Use Crystal Mist after washing or anytime to remove harmful, wax-eroding contaminants and restore the depth and clarity of a just-detailed finish.
Crystal Mist is not a quick-shine, silicone spray. Every time you use Crystal Mist, you apply a micro-fine layer of protection. Used once a week, Crystal Mist can extend the life of initial wax coatings to six months or more.

All in all, this is over $135.00 worth of great, easy-to-use products. I hope you enjoy my system,

Terry Freiberg
President
Classic Motoring Accessories

Customer comments:

"I just applied Klasse All-In-One and Pinnacle Souveran wax to my 1963 Impala Super Sport. The red paint on my car was so dull that I considered using a rubbing compound but decided to just start with your Klasse-Pinnacle combination. I was astonished with the finish. The shine is absolutely amazing. It was well worth the $100. for the Klasse-Pinnacle Kit to get a "million dollar shine".

People comment about the car wherever I go. The previous owner of the car at first thought it was not the same car but now is sure it was repainted! Friends and neighbors say there is no way I did the wax job by hand... it had to be professionally detailed. Perfect strangers are constantly taking pictures of the car at gas stations, grocery stores and even in my driveway."

Steps: KLASS All in one, Sealant Glaze, Wax

2005-07-12T03:19:00.000-07:00

1) All in one
2) sealant glaze
3) pinnacle souveran wax

or

1 All in one
2) pinnacle souvean wax
3) sealant glaze

?

Lexus Owners Club -> Sale On: "once you have waxed, you cannot apply any more sealant glaze.

steps are;

polish
sealant glaze x n - until you are happy.
wax if you like

you can layer the souveran too "

Removing Swirl Marks in the Paint

2005-07-12T03:15:00.000-07:00

300zxClub.com Forum - Removing Swirl Marks in the Paint: "I use KLASS All-in-one and also the KLASS Sealant glaze....good stuff, make sure u use microfiber cloth, this cloth is far more delicate to the surface then a regular cloth and leaves no lint and actually picks up dirt and wax krust rather then just smudging/stirring them."

Detailing Setup

2005-07-12T01:43:00.000-07:00

3 large buckets
>> 1 for clean soap
>> 1 on driver's side for rinsing mitt
>> 1 on passenger's side for rinsing mitt

1 small bucket, to hold used mitts, towels
Natural sheepskin mitts from exceldetail.com
Meguiar's NXT wash (soap)
Butcher's foam gun
Mr Clean Autodry spotfree rinse gun/filter
Thick microfiber towels from PakShak for spot drying
Costco MF towels for wheels
Tire brush

INTERIOR:
=========
Z9 leather cleaner
Z10 leather conditioner

Factory Service Manuals

2005-07-09T22:27:00.000-07:00

ZDriver.com - Factory Service Manuals: "I have noticed the growing trend of people selling used or like new service manuals and saying Nissan has put them out of print. I just bought mine straight from Nissan publications for a 93TT last week. You can call your dealers parts dept and get the number or better yet, here it is.

(440)572-0725
Nissan North America
20770 Westwood Dr
Strongsville, OH 44149-3907

and this is for a 'BRAND NEW' manual $73 shipped to your door within 7 days"

Eagle1 A2Z as a tire cleaner

2005-07-09T01:54:00.000-07:00

Autopia - How is Eagle1 A2Z as a tire cleaner? (Looking for an easy to use tire cleaner)

"Most of these cleaners are really meant for wheels that have been neglected or on a very long road trip without cleaning. For the most part if you look after your vehicle well you don't require a special cleaner. Of course using a sealant on the wheels also helps keep them clean.
...

A2Z works pretty well, but it's strong and I wouldn't use it on a regular basis.
I deep clean my tires with it every 4 washes or so. The rest of the time, I use car wash soap and an OXO tire brush.
You might also try some diluted Simple Green. It would be an in-between step."

Wool mitts from Exceldetail.com

2005-07-08T21:34:00.000-07:00

My order of two mitts from exceldetail.com arrived today. These are 100% sheepskin of the highest quality. One is the "ultra heavy" thickness and the other is "medium". These are very soft and do not have the roughness or uneven texture of the Target/Walmart/PepBoys type. My only complaint is that the shipping and handling of $9 for two mitts that fit in a envelope is pretty steep.

Patrick J. Smith, Owner/Detailer
2060 E. Ave. de Los Arboles # D 662
Thousand Oaks, CA 91362
805-341-9452 m
805-374-8685 w
patrick@exceldetail.com

Good thread on mitts:
http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57877

Dent Magic

2005-07-08T11:24:00.000-07:00

Club Z - ClubZ - Dent Magic: "A Company by the name of DENT MAGIC will be at our house in Concord, Ca this Sunday 4/10/05. He will be starting at 9:00 am sharp to do his Magic on our 90 TT.

Chuck & Marti Shipman
1578 Claycord Ave
Concord Ca 94521
Ph 925-687-2995

Date 4/10/05 Sunday
Time 9:00am

Estimated cost is $95 per a panel to have the dents out...can vary from condition, and is cash or check only.

If anyone would like to RSVP that they really want to come, to make sure you have a chance with this guy, please call Chuck Shipman, President of ClubZ.org.

The Plan is he will work on our 90TT, so those who want to watch and see how it is done which is quite amazing come on by and see. "

Getting good life out of TTs

2005-07-08T00:34:00.000-07:00

300zx.co.uk Club Bulletin Board - getting good life out of TTs: "The turbos on our ZX's can be quite temperamental. I've seen originals on cars with well over 130k miles on and still in perfect working order. On the flip side I've also seen completely worn out examples on cars with less than 60k miles on the clock. So, it is very good that you ask how to best treat them.

Starting with start-up, the Zeds are in safety boost until the engine temperature reaches operating temperatures. During this period boost is limited to about 7psi which means that the turbos won't be hammered to bits. Once operating temp has been achieved the boost increases to about 9psi on a standard TT without boost mods.

During cruise the turbos can take quite a bit of load BUT do not run them at maximum boost for prolonged periods of time.

When ending your trip, it is always adviceable to 'take it easy' on the boost for the last 2-3 miles to allow the turbos to cool down a bit. This is what I do religiously. Also, when parked up, let the engine run for another minute or so. I know it looks a bit naf sitting in your parked car, engine running but not going anywhere, but trust me, your turbos with thank you for it. Alternatively you can buy a device called a Turbo Timer (i.e., from Blitz or HKS). These devices allow you to take out the key from the ignition, arm your alarm and leave the car while the timer keeps the engine running for a preset period of time to cool the turbos down.

As with everything else in life, common sense must prevail. With bits of technology like extremely fast spinning turbo spools it pays to be careful and treat it well."

turbocharger@Everything2.com

2005-07-07T23:53:00.000-07:00

turbocharger@Everything2.com: "If you own a turbocharged car, it's important to take proper care of your turbo. This will keep you from having to get it replaced after a few thousand miles (and most limited warranties don't cover turbochargers).
The first thing to remember is that turbochargers need time to warm up and cool down. After starting your car when it's been sitting for a while, don't drive it hard. This is actually good advice for naturally aspirated cars as well. You need to give your engine and turbocharger time to warm up and get the oil circulating. After 10 to 15 minutes or so of easy driving, your car should be sufficiently warmed up. This gives the engine time to adjust to a fairly constant operating temperature, which keeps parts from getting too stressed. Remember, metal expands with heat and contracts with coolness.
Turbochargers get very, very hot. Not only is the turbo circulating extremely hot exhaust gases, it is also spinning at insanely high RPMs. This creates friction, and friction creates heat. Thus, turbochargers need a cool surface on which to spin with a minimum of friction. Most turbos simply use engine oil for this -- the friction is very low and the oil has the added benefit of cooling the turbo down a bit. Higher-end turbos use ball-bearings, which are more efficient.
If you don't have a ball-bearing turbo, it's very important to let your turbo cool down for at least a minute or two before you turn off your engine. The reason for this is that shutting down the engine while the turbo is hot can cause the engine oil in the turbo to 'coke up', or become sludgy and sticky, coating the turbo. It's kinda like cholesterol in your arteries -- if too much builds up, the turbo will stop working and you'll be very, very unhappy. Letting the car idle for a few minutes allows the oil to circulate and cool the turbo down, thus preventing coking. Furthermore, if you use synthetic oil, it will not coke up at all. Synthetics are good.

If you don't have time to sit in your car for several minutes before shutting it down each time, you should invest in a turbo timer. Turbo timers are devices that connect to your car's ignition system and allow the car to run for a few minutes, unsupervised, then shuts it off. If anyone tries to drive off with the car during this time, the turbo timer automatically shuts off the engine. A lot of high-end alarm systems come with built-in turbo timers.

If you take good care of your turbocharged car, it should last you a nice long time. And you'll get the benefit of a blazingly fast car as well. Enjoy."

Turbo Timer purpose, by the manufacturers

2005-07-07T23:39:00.000-07:00

Got | Apex? Forums - turbos and superchargers??: "'The A'PEX Timer is designed to keep the engine idling after the engine is shut down and the ignition key is removed. The purpose is to keep oil running through the turbo to cool down the center housing. This is particularly critical after a hard run, where the turbines can spin at over 200,000 RPM and reach temperatures as high as 900C...Extended and repetitive oil coking within the oil lines and center housing could result in clogging problems and damaged turbos.' - A'PEXi

'The turbo's bearings rely on a generous supply of clean engine oil. All oil pressure is lost when the engine isn't running. With temperatures ... at the turbine shaft [of] 300-350C, a hard, destructive varnish or 'coke' can form on the bearings or seals.' - Greddy Performance

'This permits the engine oil to circulate through the turbocharger bearing housing, drawing heat out of the bearings and impeller shaft in order to bring the temperature down to a safe level before the engine is shut down.' - HKS"

300ZX Twin Turbo Basics

2005-07-07T23:22:00.000-07:00

300ZX Twin Turbo Basics: "Words in all capital letters are of key interest and good components for upgrade.
Following the 'air' path through the engine will take us in logical order through all the steps of what the components under the hood are doing. Since this is a twin turbo engine, the process described is happening on both sides of the engine bay. There are several cars like the one that comes from that 'other' Japanese company and starts with an 'S' (and a few might even think was competition for the Z) that use a sequential turbo charging approach, but Nissan chose to use two full range turbos in tandem. (The merits of the two approaches are another discussion.)
Air enters the intake track through the AIR BOX located between the headlights. The air is filtered and sent to the compressor side of the TURBO CHARGER. At this point the turbo can be thought of as two encased paddle wheels linked together with a central shaft. One that uses expanding exhaust gasses to drive the turbine side and the other that takes incoming air and compresses it. Following the laws of thermodynamics, this compressed air has now also become very hot. Cooler intake air produces more horsepower. To cool the intake charge the air is directed through a set of air-to-air INTERCOOLERS. The intercooler acts as a radiator and uses cool outside air passing through it to extract the heat from the hot intake charge. This cool, dense, high pressure air now heads to the intake manifold. Once it reaches the intake manifold (that big aluminum casting on top of the engine) the balance tube equalizes the two air paths. This is just a tube that levels out any pressure differences that may exist between the output of the two turbos and ensures that each of the six cylinders receives the same air flow. The air is then ingested through two intake valves (4 valve per cylinder engine). The usual "internal combustion" process is carried out. The Z has six 370cc INJECTORS for injecting fuel into the combustion chamber, and then a direct ignition coil above each spark plug to ignite the mixture.

Upon leaving the engine via the two exhaust valves the exhaust manifold directs a portion of the exhaust flow through the turbine side of the turbo, and a portion of it is sent to the exhaust system. The turbine side of the turbo eventually dumps its exhaust gasses to the exhaust system also. The job of regulating the exhaust flow either into the turbine or to the exhaust is performed by the WASTEGATE. The wastegate is a simple pneumatic valve that uses a control input from the intake manifold to regulate the pressure that the turbos develop. The key element to horsepower is careful control and management of the boost. Not enough boost and the car "lags", too much and you cook a piston. In conjunction with the "boost", fuel and ignition maps must be in perfect concert. The management of these and other things is the job of the ENGINE MANAGEMENT COMPUTER.

Once in the exhaust system the exhaust gas travels through a set of pre-cats and then through the CATALYTIC CONVERTERS. Once through the cats, the exhaust on a stock set up is sent through a pair of RESONATORS and a balance pipe or "H-PIPE" to even out the exhaust pulses and quiet the tone.

Finally it passes through a pair of MUFFLERS and out the EXHAUST TIPS.

That covers the very basic nature of what is going on under the hood of a 300ZX Twin Turbo."

Cleaning Wheels (Bill D)

2005-07-06T23:39:00.000-07:00

Autopia - Do you take wheels off to clean the rims?: "Somewhat related, I've been known to dress the backsides of the tires of my vehicles
I don't remove the wheels to do this. I twist and contort myself to reach the entire surface of each back tire. For the fronts, it's easy. I just turn the steering wheel all in the way in one direction for one tire and dress and the other and the dress the second. I spray the dressing on the tires with a pump cooking oil sprayer to hit all the spots of the tires and then spread with a foam paint brush.

I clean the insides of the Cadillac wheels , although they are covered by wire wheel covers by going through the same basic regimen as dressing the backs of the tires. Car wash solution shot via foam gun and a good rinse with a hose will often suffice but I have also sprayed APCs, agitated with long handles brushes and rinses.

As for the wheel covers, they get washed like dishes in the utility sink with a heavy car wash solution and my wheel duty sheepskin mitt. I rinse them, dry them with a WW and use the leaf blower to blast away any drips.

The Audi is a snap, I just shoot car wash solution with foam gun in the insides,agitate well with the mitt and rinse."

Driving the ZX Home

2005-07-05T15:18:00.000-07:00

Most people were still on holiday. Light workday traffic. Saw an arctic white 300ZX non-turbo on 101S at Hwy 85.

Let the turbos cool but not accellerating much during the last mile and letting the car idle for about a minute before turning off.

Tire pressure after the drive (hot tires): 37 psi on all four wheels.
Later in the evening, 35 psi on all wheels at "garage temperature".

Heard a sound: It was like water dripping onto a white-hot frying pan. A drop every 3 seconds. Near the wheel wells(?) Stopped after a few minutes.

Jay gave me the original ECU chip, original shifter, spare keys, front license plate, original air filter box, car cover, t-top covers, and a plastic model kit (Tamiya).

Using the Butcher's Foam Gun

2005-07-05T11:28:00.000-07:00

Autopia - In Wal-Mart, they have a foam gun: "I have the foam gun in one hand, the mitt on the other and gently wisk the mitt over a small portion of a panel at a time. I never had to totally put down the foam gun to wash. If I did that I wouldn't have the constant stream of flowing soap mixture over the finish, the reason I want to use the foam gun.

You can't use two mitts this way but I see no need to have to use two." [Bill D]

===

I get mine from Messner's . As best I can tell you have to call them (608 256-0695) to order, or at least that's what I do. You want item# BAQ-4165900

Total for the last one I got was $76.20 after tax and shipping.

===

Use diluted Meguiar's NXT Wash in the foam gun's reservoir.

History of this 300ZX

2005-07-04T17:06:00.000-07:00

Happy 4th of July!

Here's the history of this 1992 300ZX Twin Turbo:

First owner was an engineer from Sun Microsystems. Jay, the second owner, bought it in 1995. DMV recorded the change of ownership on 12/28/1995. The day before (12/27/1995), it passed the smog test and the odometer reading was 32,027.

I took over ownership on 7/5/2005 when the odometer was 101,412. So, this means Jay enjoyed the car for about 70K miles. The last mileage recorded on the 7/3/2005 carfax was 97,305 on 12/27/2003. This means, the car had 97 - 101 = 4K miles from 12/27/2003 to 7/4/2005 (~1.5 years).

Jay had the 90K maintenance done on the car at Yarnell's in Mountain View.

According to a webpage of serial numbers, the VIN indicates that this car was built in December 1991. There were 183 twin-turbos built that month (VIN prefix JN1CZ24H_NX; where "_" can be any number or "X"). The data for the webpage came from a Nissan microfiche and Steve Simmons.

Fun fact: When I bought this ZX from Jay in Portola Valley, his next-door neighbor was also "Don Lee".

Tire Ratings

2005-07-03T02:09:00.000-07:00

Treadwear:
Treadwear ratings range from a low value of 60 to over 500. These ratings indicate the relative performance of tires under standards conditions. Actual performance is dependent upon a number of factors, including driving habits, road characteristics, climate, etc. Treadwear values can be used to estimate number of miles the tire will last using the following formula: multiply the rating by two, the add two zeros to the answer. For example, a rating of 300 means the tire should last about 60,000 miles.

Traction:
Traction ratings range from the highest to lowest in the following ranking: AA, A, B, C. This rating system is measure of the tire’s ability to stop on wet concrete and asphalt.

Temperature:
Temperature ratings range from the highest to lowest in the following ranking: A, B, C, and are a measure of the tire’s ability to withstand high temperatures. High temperatures may lead to sudden tire failure, and are caused by a number of driving conditions.

See also:
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/regrev/evaluate/807805.html